Click to hear me sing
Mt. Wilcox
Elevation:
Height Gain:
Location:
9,462 feet (2884M)
2,952 feet (900M)
Columbia Icefields
Note for 20 Sep 98: Sunny, light wind, 10°C (50°F) at the summit. About five inches of snow from the previous day covering the entire route.
  Date Ascent Time Descent Time
1st Time 20 Sep 98 2:40 1:16

20 Sep 98 - Mt. Wilcox is a great mountain to climb, but it's a long way from Calgary. To get there, drive up the Icefields Parkway to the Icefields Information Centre (200 miles from Calgary (3 hrs)). The drive up there is very scenic, especially if you're driving as the sun comes up. The climb up Mt. Wilcox is non-technical and offers tremendous views of Athabasca Glacier, Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, and the Snow Dome. Anyway, park in the parking lot at the Information Centre (which is on the north side of the building). Walk around to the southeast side of the building and look for a trailhead leading up the rocky slope leading toward a ridge.

The book speaks of hiking Wilcox Pass Trailhead, but I think this is totally unnecessary. Hiking up the ridge which lies behind the Information Centre is not a big deal.



20 Sep 98 - From the Information Centre, walk over to where the buses park. Walk up the hill (about twenty yards) and you will see some water tanks. I think these are actually waste tanks, but that's another story. Walk around the tanks counter-clockwise and as you pass them, look for a very small trail leading through the bushes. This trail is only about a foot wide. This trail will eliminate bushwacking your way through the trees, but if you can't find the trail, don't worry about it. The bushwacking isn't that bad and it only lasts about fifteen minutes or so. Make your way toward the ridge. The further south you go along the ridge, the easier the climb, but the further you will have to do in total distance. Once you make it to the top of the ridge, you will need to turn left and head toward Mt. Wilcox. For your information, once you clear the first ridge, you are now in Wilcox Pass.



20 Sep 98 - After gaining Wilcox Pass, you will see Mt. Wilcox on your left and Nigel Peak in front of you. Turn left and walk toward Mt. Wilcox. This is an easy peaceful walk. You will eventually get to the mountain where you just follow the ridge to the summit. There are very few places where you would actually need to use your hands, but when you need to, the handholds are very solid.

Given the snow and slippery conditions, after reaching the summit, I looked for an alternative way down. All along the ridge of Mt. Wilcox, you will see gullys branching off into Wilcox Pass. Most of these provide a good way down. Plenty of scree skiing to be had (or glissading if there is snow). I found this to be much faster then traversing back across the southeast ridge. From the base of Mt. Wilcox, just head across Wilcox Pass to the first ridge you came up. Look for cairns on your way down.



20 Sep 98 - The best view from Mt. Wilcox is that of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, and Athabasca Glacier. This is all shown here from left to right. I'll be climbing Mt. Athabasca in October of this year with Yamnuska Mountaineering School.



20 Sep 98 - Along the way to the summit, I came across this bird, which was really neat. It didn't appear to be scared of me. I was able to stand within four feet of it for about ten minutes, and it never seemed scared. I've been told that it's a ptarmigan. Pretty cool, eh?