Click to hear me sing
Mt. Edith
Elevation:
Height Gain:
Location:
8,379 ft (2554M)
3,674 ft (1120M)
Banff
Note for 20 Sep 02: Solo trip on a Friday. Cloudy with light wind. A bit of snow and ice, but nothing too difficult.
  Date Ascent to
North Peak
Ascent to
Center Peak
Ascent to
South Peak
Descent Time
1st Time 20 Sep 02 2:25 0:25 0:48 1:24

20 Sep 02 For this climb, you want to use the Cory Pass Trail. The trail starts off by going through a thin birch forest, then the trail turns and starts going uphill. It goes up and up until you gain a shoulder, which you then traverse to the pass.



20 Sep 02 This is after the steep part of the Cory Pass Trail. From here, we can see the pass. Basically, we just cut across the slopes below Mt. Edith. The slope of the trail is only about 10% and the steep part is behind you.



20 Sep 02 Once at the col, you really only have a little ways to go. You start by going up the scree slope to the summit block. Once you reach the summit block, you can go straight at the summit by ascending a very narrow chimney. This is the way I went, but I got wedged into the walls and it took a lot of effort to free myself. You can also go around to the south side of the summit block to find a wider, less steep chimney, which will lead to the same spot.



20 Sep 02 After you reach the top of the chimney, the summit is very near. Unfortunately, you have to get across a narrow, but deep crack in the strata. I jumped across, but there's a trail where people go around the crack on the left. When I went, there wasn't a summit register inside the cairn.



20 Sep 02 This is the descent path off the north summit, enroute to the center summit. This chimney is the "alternate" ascent chimney I mentioned above.



20 Sep 02 Here we see the center peak, as seen from the north summit. Make your way down the chimney shown above to reach the col, then go up a gully system to reach the summit. Kane mentions staying on the ridge proper, but given the snow conditions, I felt safer in the gully. Click here to enlarge



20 Sep 02 Quickly, you'll find yourself at the center peak's summit with the south peak in the distance. Here, I found a register, but no booklet inside.



20 Sep 02 From the center peak, you can see the lower half of the route up the south peak (shown here). The route starts off easy enough, then you encounter a tunnel. Click here to enlarge



20 Sep 02 Here we see the tunnel, which is really a chimney with a chock stone in it. After you clear the tunnel, you'll find about 20 cairns marking the way to the SE Ridge. By the time you get to the ridge, you just scramble along the ridge to the summit.



20 Sep 02 This is the final bit of scrambling to reach the cairn. The third summit of the day.