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Date |
Ascent Time |
Descent Time |
| 1st Time |
06 Sep 03 |
5:00 |
1:00 |
 06 Sep 03 -
This was my second route on the face of Yam (the other was Unnamed), and I think the two are very similar
in style. Although, Grillmair has a bit more chimney climbing involved, and the overall route is a bit
longer than unnamed. Basically, the route goes up a huge chimney that is between the two red dots on
the picture. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
This is looking up the route from the base. Somehow, we got off track a little with our pitches.
It was suppose to be 8 pitches, but we did it in 7. I believe we turned pitch 3-5 into two pitches. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
Here, we see Blair leading up Pitch 1 (I think). Further up this pitch, there is a tight gully that I got stuck in.
It's so tight that you can't turn sideways because of your pack. I got wedged in there pretty good. The climbing
would be a lot easier if the gully was about two feet wider. This first crack that you see behind Blair was pretty
easy. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
This is Blair starting Pitch 3. After getting stuck in the last chimney, I tried to stay a bit to the outside, but
it kept pulling me back in. Blair went half way up the buttress in front of him, then dropped into the chimney to the left. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
While Blair was leading Pitch 3, Chris decided to find a comfortable spot to do the belay. He was even working on his
tan. It was sunny and 30°C out on this south facing face. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
Here we see Blair about six feet higher than he was two pictures ago. From here, he ended up turning left and going into
that chimney. There is a rope in one of the chimneys, and I think it was this one. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
The nice thing about going with two other people is that while one belays, and the other climbs, you get to just lean
back against a rock and relax. That's exactly what I'm doing. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
Now for the final pitch. Chris led this one. There is a really cool cave-like crack where you go up the chimney
where Chris is, then go into the crack by about 15 feet or so. This takes you to some ledges, and eventually, you pop
out of a little hole on the scramble side of Yam. You'll probably have to take your pack off to get up throught the
hole. It's a tight fit. |
|
 06 Sep 03 -
In this picture, Chris is at the point, where you go into the 'cave'. It's really cool back in there. |
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