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King's Creek
Total Height:
Technical Grade:
 147 ft (45M)
WI 2-3+
Note for 25 Nov 00: I went with John Ionescu. Temperatures were around -10°C (14°F). There were three seepages, each about 100 yards apart. We stayed on the middle one for most of the day, then we found a fourth seepage, past the third one. It was a mixed climb with thin ice. Parts of it was hard to protect. The ice on the middle seepage was a bit wet and plastic feeling.

Note for 29 Oct 01: I went with Tom McMahon and Mike T. Temperatures were around -0°C. Only one of the three seepages had formed, and it was thin. The bottom would take a 17cm screw but the rest of the route would only take stubbies. Good early season climb.

Note for 10 Nov 01: I went with Tom McMahon and Connie Clark. Temperatures were around -0°C. A little fatter than last time, but very crowded. We climbed from 1300 until dark, and had to pack up and hike out by headlamp.

Note for 08 Apr 02: I went with Tom McMahon and Ray Hogan. Temperatures were around -0°C. Lots of ice and snow, and not very crowded. We climbed the third (main) seepage, then climbed one that I've never seen before between the third and fourth seepage.

Note for 03 Nov 02: I went with Gerry Drotar. Temperatures were around -0°C. Lots of early season ice, but very crowded. We didn't get there until 1600, and we climbed into darkness. We climbed the last ice flow in the corner, and then climbed the main flow in the dark after everybody else left.

Note for 09 Nov 02: I went with Paul Russel. Temperatures were around -0°C. Lot of slushy ice. We just played on the back seepage in the corner.



25 Nov 00 - King's Creek generally (according to the book) consists of three seepages. The middle one being the biggest. John and I were the first ones there, so we immediately took the second one, shown here.



25 Nov 00 - Here we see John quickly leading the ice, stopping here to put in his first screw.



25 Nov 00 - This is John's second screw. He's slowly approaching the top.



25 Nov 00 - After we climbed on the falls a couple of times, we got a bit board. John and I both tried a bit of dry-tooling on the left side of the falls. This section of rock is actually overhanging with a finish on verglass.



25 Nov 00 - After our mixed route, John and I found a real mixed route. It was the beginnings of a fourth seepage. This one was very thin, really hard to protect, and quite steep. This is where we should have been all day.



25 Nov 00 - Here we see John leading his way up the falls.



25 Nov 00 - We ran out of time after John got to the top. The sun was setting. Here we see John cleaning as he rappells the route.



29 Oct 01 - The next year, Tom and I went there. Here we see Tom leading the climb. You could probably solo the entire climb, but this was really thin, so Tom placed some protection here and there.



29 Oct 01 - Compare this picture with the picture on the top, and you'll see that we might have been a bit early for this climb.