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Murchison Falls
Total Height:
Technical Grade:
591 ft (180M)
WI 4+
Note for 14 Mar 99: I went with Chris Wickens, Tom Maier, and Kevin Yang. Temperatures were around -5°C (23°F). The ice was rather brittle, and there were two parties ahead of us. We were getting shelled with ice, so we decided to leave.

Note for 24 Nov 01: I went with Rob Davidson and John Ionescu. Temperatures were around -8°C (17°F). We went up the right, then did a diagonal traverse toward the left to get even with the crux curtain. Rob got hit with a big chunk of ice, and couldn't continue the climb, so we all turned back. We were about 60m from the top.

Note for 01 Dec 01: I went with Rob Davidson, Tom McMahon, Connie Clark and John Ionescu. Temperatures were around -6°C (21°F). We just went to set up a top rope and play.


14 Mar 99 - The red line shows two guys on the route. The other two were just over the first bump (out of sight). Anyway, we were getting bombarded with ice, so we left.



24 Nov 01 - On this picture, the orange line shows what we solo'd, and the red line shows our path for the belayed climbing. At the top of the red line is where John was heading up the narrow gully. This is where Rob got smacked with ice and where we turned around.



24 Nov 01 - Here we see John heading up the narrow gully. As you can see, the line we picked was pretty easy from here on.



24 Nov 01 - Here I am at the rap station. This was a little nerving rapell. It was 200ft of vertical, but because of the cloud, you could only see about 190ft of the rope. It looked like we were heading off into the abyss.



01 Dec 01 - This shows the entire route up Murchison. You solo the first 60-70 meters of it. The rest can be done in two full pitches.



01 Dec 01 - One this day, Tom, Connie and myself stayed down on the lower ice to play while John and Rob made another attempt at Murchison. A couple of French guys took our line from a week ago, so they were trying a left line. They solo'd up quite a bit, but they headed to different places to start the belay'd climbing. Oops. Rob is on the bottom left and John is in the middle. One of the french guys is on the upper right.



01 Dec 01 - This is where John and Rob ended up before doing the belayed climbing. They were practically half way up the ice. I've underlined both of them in red.