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Dave's Ice Climbs

Welcome to my Ice Climbing section. Of the various types of mountaineering, I must say that ice climbing isn't really one of my favourites, but I do like it better than rock. Doing too much ice can lead to you getting out of shape (cardio-wise). The approaches are usually quite short (under and hour) and once you are on the route, you're never working up a sweat.

As with all forms of mountaineering (scrambling, skiing, alpine climbing, etc.) there is a definative book for finding route information. It's titled, "Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" and it's by Joe Josephson. Much like Dougherty's book, I have no intention of climbing every route in the book. A lot of routes in this book are class WI-5 or higher. I must say that I don't have the desire to climb ice at that level. I merely climb waterfall ice to pass the "transition time" from alpine climbing and scrambling to ski mountaineering. There is usually a 2 month period where there is not enough snow in the mountains to do ski mountaineering and too much snow to do scrambles or alpine climbs. That's when I ice climb.

Now, breaking up this section was tough. I don't want to list every climb in the book as I did for the scrambles section, so I've chosen to break it up in my own way:
Ice Climbs by Area

  Waterfall Date Last
Climbed
Height Gain Technical
Grade


Waterton Area
  A Little Past Midnight 27 Nov 04 100 ft (30M) WI 3
  Franklin's Motel 13 Dec 03 100 ft (30M) WI 4
  French Kiss 06 Dec 03 100 ft (30M) WI 3
  Le Pillier des Putains 06 Dec 03 100 ft (30M) WI 4
  Levi's Ankle 13 Dec 03 100 ft (30M) WI 4
  Lineham Left 20 Dec 03 410 ft (125M) WI 4
  Midnight Cowboy 21 Feb 04 196 ft (60M) WI 4
  Midnight Madness 02 Nov 03 360 ft (110M) WI 3
  Midnight Rendevous 11 Nov 04 300 ft (90M) WI 2+


Kananaskis
  Chantilly Falls 04 Feb 01 328 ft (100M) WI 2
  Cobra Verde 28 Jan 06 820 ft (250M) WI 3
  King's Creek 09 Nov 02 147 ft (45M) WI 2-3+
  Marshall Arts 28 Oct 01 196 ft (60M) WI 3-R
  R&D 02 Nov 01 295 ft (90M) WI 4
  Snowline 01 Jan 02 328 ft (100M) WI 4
  Trick or Treat 20 Nov 04 133 ft (70M) WI 4


Banff/Canmore
  Canmore Junkyards 01 Jan 00 98 ft (30M) WI 2-3
  Cascade Falls 23 Dec 01 984 ft (300M) WI 3
  Grotto Falls 03 Nov 02 180 ft (55M) WI 3
  Heart Creek 03 Nov 02 98 ft (30M) WI 3
  His-n-Hers 27 Feb 00 66 ft (20M) WI 4
  Johnston Canyon 16 Dec 01 180 ft (55M) WI 4


Ghost River Area
  Good Bad and Ugly 10 Dec 00 148 ft (45M) WI 4
  Sunshine Falls 17 Dec 00 148 ft (45M) WI 3
  This House of Sky 18 Dec 04 1,640 ft (500M) WI 3
  The Indifferent 19 Jan 02 131 ft (40M) WI 3+


Louise and Field
  Guinness Gully 15 Dec 01 804 ft (245M) WI 4
  Louise Falls 09 Dec 01 360 ft (110M) WI 4+


Radium Parkway
  Haffner Creek 27 Dec 01 98 ft (30M) WI 4


Icefields Parkway
  Bison Falls 03 Nov 01 262 ft (80M) WI 3
  Bow Falls 18 Nov 01 312 ft (95M) WI 3+
  Gorby Falls 27 Dec 00 295 ft (90M) WI 3
  Lady Wilson's Cleavage 29 Nov 01 984 ft (300M) WI 3
  Murchison Falls 24 Nov 01 591 ft (180M) WI 4+
  Pointless Gully 12 Nov 01 312 ft (95M) WI 4
  Shades of Beauty 04 Nov 01 394 ft (120M) WI 4


David Thompson Hwy
  Cline River Gallery 06 Jan 01 98 ft (30M) WI 4
  Five Seven Zero 02 Dec 01 328 ft (100M) WI 4
  Gentlemen's Orders 07 Jan 01 164 ft (50M) WI 2
  Pure Energy 13 Mar 99 98 ft (30M) WI 4