Click to hear me sing
Mt. Brock
Elevation:
Height Gain:
Location:
9,521 ft (2902m)
4,000 ft (1220m)
Kananaskis
Note for 29 Jul 06: I went with Blair Piggot and attempted the SE Pillar of the West Rib route. We made great time to the base of the climb, but on the 4th pitch, we got our butt kicked. We couldn't figure out where the route went. This is a very stiff 5.6.
  Date Ascent Time Descent Time
1st Time 29 Jul 06 incomplete incomplete

The route starts by hiking up Kings Creek past all of the ice climbs around the corner to the left, past the base of Blane, then up a gully toward the Brock/Blane col. From where Kings Creek turns left (north), you'll want to take the fifth gully. This is me meandering up Kings Creek. Note that the ice climbs aren't actually there during alpine season.



Sometimes it gets confusing as to which gully is the fifth gully, so we checked the book a few times, looking at the picture to determine if this was the right gully.



This is Mt. Brock, as seen from the base of Kings Creek. When you get to this point, you'll see the right drainage to head up.



This is Blair scrambling up the ascent gully. There was some exposed scrambling in the approach gully. You probably could have found a less-exposed way, but we didn't look.



This is looking back down the ascent gully toward King Creek.



More of the approach. We actually decided it was easier to get out of our gully and up on the right bank. As we got to the base of the climb, we dropped back into the gully.



This is another picture of our route, as seen from the approach. The red dotted line shows our route (as far as we got).



After 2hrs, we made it to the base of the climb. This gully seen here with snow will actually go all the way up to the col. From there, it's a much easier climb, but this isn't the route we were after. In other words, that's cheatin'



This is Blair leading up the first pitch, which was around 55m, 5.6. The pitch climbed up above the slab and to the right.



This is me topping out from the first pitch.



Where I'm standing is the top of the first pitch. I'm actually taking a picture of Blair on the second pitch. See below (next photo) for that picture.



This is Blair leading up the second pitch, which was around 55m, 5.5. The pitch continued to climbed up and to the right.



The third pitch goes up the scree basin and then follows a sort-of-ledge system to a gully/corner 60m 5.4. After that, we went up that gully/corner but turned around after 30m or so (5.6). Everything above that was tougher than 5.6, so we figured we were off route.