Click to hear me sing
Mt. Woolley
Elevation:
Height Gain:
Location:
11,171 ft (3405M)
5,864 feet (1787M)
Columbia Icefields
Note for 18 Aug 02: This was an ACC trip that I led. Gerry Stewart, Paul Russell, Taco Van Ieperen, Gerry Drotar, and myself. We hiked in under rainy conditions, with little hope of actually climbing the peak. By morning, we had cloudless skies with incredible conditions. Most steps were boot top snow, with very little avalanche problems. GerryD and Taco were also able to get up Diadem.

Note for 14 Aug 04: I went with Dan Ronsky and Blair Piggot as a day trip. Sunny and dry conditions. I was amazed at how much the glacier has retreated. This peak was done as the first peak. We then traversed over and up Diadem Peak before returning to the car. Car to car was 14.5 hours.

  Date Ascent Time Descent Time
1st Time 18 Aug 02 5:30
from bivy
4:00
to bivy
2nd Time 14 Aug 04 7:30
from car
0:30
to col

18 Aug 02: Here we see the two peaks of Woolley (left) and Diadem (right). Because of a late start, we decided to go after Woolley first. If we had time at the end of the day, we would grab Diadem on the way out. The route up Woolley actually starts by climbing 1/3rd the way up Diadem. You go up the main gully on Diadem, then up through a chimney, across some rocks, into a steep narrow gully, then up the glacier to the col. Once at the col, the route is simply a walk to the summit, although, we did find one 10 foot step in the ridge, but it wasn't anything to really worry about. Click here to enlarge.



18 Aug 02: After an invigorating trip across the Sunwapta River, you start your hike up Woolley Creek. The hike starts off by going up a steep hill, where you are rewarded with a great view of a beautiful waterfall.



18 Aug 02: Further up the creek, the trail flattens as you approach the boulder field. Here the trail sticks pretty close to the creek, sometimes dipping into the creek. When you get to the boulder field, stick right along the creek. You'll find hundreds of cairns to mark your way. Eventually, you'll clear the boulder field and round Mushroom Peak, which has been on your right the entire time. Continue up scree, sticking close to the creek until you reach the obvious bivy site near a small tarn at the base of the glacier (GR725939).



18 Aug 02: The entire trip in was in a steady rain. We set up camp and all hundled under GerryD's tarp. This was a nice touch. Here we see Taco (right) and GerryS (left).



18 Aug 02: When we first woke up, the weather didn't look good. We went back to bed thinking we'd be hiking back out in a few hours, but by 0700, the weather had cleared and we quickly got our acts together. By 0800, we left camp and started up the moraine to the glacier. We ascended the main gully, then cut over to a chimney to gain the rock ledges. Here we see GerryS and Paul heading for the chimney.



18 Aug 02: We then scrambled across the rocks to gain the steeper and more narrow gully to access the glacier. From there, we had excellent views of our bivy site and the valley below us. The red dot shows where our bivy was located.



18 Aug 02: Here we see myself at the Woolley/Diadem col with Woolley's summit in the background. The route from here is obvious. This is Paul's picture.



18 Aug 02: About 2/3rds of the way along the summit ridge, the terrain starts to flatten out and you are presented with a small step along the ridge. It wasn't much to worry about.



18 Aug 02: Now for the picture everybody climbs this mountain for. Right next to Mt. Woolley is Mt. Alberta (seen here). The standard route goes up the left skyline ridge, then traverses the prominant ledge, then up to the summit ridge. Click here to enlarge.



18 Aug 02: Here we see GerryS sitting at the summit with Athabasca and Andromeda in the distant background. What a view. From the summit, you could see Athabasca, Andromeda, SnowDome, Kitchener, Bryce, North Twin, Twin's Tower, Columbia, King Edward, Alberta, Clemenceau, Edith Cavell, Brazeau, and Diadem. That's a great view.



18 Aug 02: One final picture of the group before heading back to the car. From left to right, we have Paul, GerryS, Me, GerryD, and Taco. Click to enlarge.