Click to hear me sing
Mt. Victoria South
Elevation:
Height Gain:
Location:
11,365 ft (3464m)
1,780 ft (542M) from hut
Lake Louise
Note for 07 Jul 01: I went with Frederic Labarre and John Ionescu. Great snow conditions. The sickle was wider than expected. We actually never roped up for the climb.

  Date Ascent Time Descent Time
1st Time 07 Jul 01 3:06 from
Abott's Pass
1:54 to
Huber summit

The first thing you do for Huber is to get to Abott's Pass Hut. Click here to see a description of that route.



Of course, Mt. Victoria is the most photographed mountain. It's the background for Lake Louise. There are a number of different routes on the mountain, but the peak is usually ascended up the left skyline ridge from Abott's Pass. This picture was actually taken on a different day than the climb.



From Abott's Pass, you go around the bathroom in the back of the hut, and start making your way through the rockbands and an effort to gain the ridge. I got smucked by a huge rock while going up here. John accidently sent down a rock bigger than a basketball that hit me right in the tricep.



Here we see Frederic coming up behind John and I. The rock is really lose through here, so be careful.



Once you gain the ridge, the look down the other side is a big drop off with Lake O'Hara being a long way down.



Many people short rope this entire route, but we felt comfortable with conditions and we solo'd the entire route. Most of it was an exposed snow walk. Some parts were more exposed than others. Regardless though... one slip and it was "game over".



Here we are entering into the sickle. It wasn't nearly as bad as I was expecting. I guess we just had awesome conditions. If you look closely, you can see me entering the start of the downhill part of the sickle with Frederic behind me.
Click to enlarge.



This is a closer picture of the start of the sickle.
Click to enlarge.



Here is more of the ridge showing the exposure. This part of the ridge is waaaaaay above the lower seracs that fall into the death trap. This is higher on the ridge closer to the summit.



Woohoo!!! I made the summit. John and Frederic made it there first and there was a nice rest spot just past the summit.



I figure since all of the tourist stand at the Chateau and take a picture of Mt. Victoria, I would do it the other way. This is taken from the summit looking back at Lake Louise.



This is coming off the summit on the way back to Huber. I really like this picture. I keep trying to convince John that he should enter it in the Alpine Club's photo contest.
Click to enlarge.



One last picture of the ridge. This is myself and Frederic on our way back down the ridge.