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Date |
Ascent Time |
Descent Time |
| 1st Time |
23 Aug 00 |
5:56 |
5:37 |
The first thing you do for LeFroy is to get to Abott's Pass Hut. Click
here to see a description of that route. When I did LeFroy, Rob and I went up via the Death
Trap route and met our third partner (Ken) at the Hut. He had got to the hut via the O'Hara
side, with an unintentional detour over the wiwaxy ledges.
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99 percent of the route up LeFroy is visable from the Hut. Basically, just go around the first bump
to as shown in red, then just go up the gully. We solo'd the slope up to the second rock band (the yellow
rock). We stopped there to rope up and pitch the rest of it. It took us five or six 55 metre pitches to get to
the top of this photo. Rob would lead it, then belay Ken and I up.
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Here is looking from where we roped up. The red arrow points to the hut. Two days prior to us climbing here,
two off-duty park wardens were climbing LeFroy and fell down the entire slope, resulting in serious injury.
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Here we see Rob and Ken after the last belayed pitch. Being the last person, I circled around onto the rocks
and went the rest of the way as a scramble. Ken came up to me next, got just above me and then slipped. I
managed to stop his fall, but he drove his crampon into my leg and another one in my hand. Now, I've got two
scars!!! Woohoo. My first climbing scars.
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For the last part we unroped, took off the crampons, and scrambled to the summit. Here we see Ken coming
up through the rocks. Because of the belaying, the ascent took an enormous about of time, and the ice that we
came up had turned to slush. We dug a v-thread anchor, but when we shoved the rope into one end, water gushed
out the other. We decided to stick to rock horns for rapells. We did nine 30 metre rapells, then downclimbed
the rest.
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With fixed belays on the way up, and individual rapells on the way down, this climb wasn't very strenuous, but
it took a ton of time. It was good to be back down at the hut. I forgot to take a summit picture of everybody,
so here is my picture of the three of us at the hut. Mt. Hungabee (left) and Mt. Biddle (center) are in the background.
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