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Date |
Ascent Time |
Descent Time |
| 1st Time |
03 Aug 03 |
5:15 from hut |
4:00 to hut |
To climb Mt. Fay, most people first go to the Neil Colgan Hut, which is what I did. I went via
the Perren Route.
 16 Aug 03 -
This is Mt. Fay, as seen from Larch Valley across Morain Lake. The red line shows our route up the
Centre Ice Bulge Direct. It's a route that's becoming easier as the years go by.
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 02 Aug 03 -
This is Mt. Fay as seen from the top of the Perren Route. The north face of Fay offers many gullies,
each of which contain some great climbing.
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 03 Aug 03 -
After first spending the night in the Neil Colgan Hut, we woke up to a beautful day (with a lot of forest
fire smoke). We rounded Mt. Little, and started our approach to Mt. Fay's north face. We knew the 'schrund
would be a problem, so we just picked the line that had the easiest way across the 'schrund. This
happened to be the Centre Ice Bulge Direct. The red line shows our route of ascent. The big bulge to the
left of our route is called the 'Chouinard Bulge Direct', and is much harder than our line.
|
 03 Aug 03 -
Crossing the 'schrund wasn't a problem at all. There was a nice snow bridge on the right side of the
gully. Here we see Blair leading the way. We pitched out the first pitch across the 'schrund. After
that, we did a running belay.
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 03 Aug 03 -
The final pitch is where the bulge use to be (it melted away), and the ice is vertical. The picture is very
foreshortened, but here we see Gerry leading the final pitch, which we did a fixed belay on.
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 03 Aug 03 -
After topping out onto the summit ridge, we decided to relax and take a nice break in the rocks above
the Roth Kallen Route. There was a party of two making their way up this route, so we would keep checking
with them.
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 03 Aug 03 -
So after a long break in the rocks, we decided to go up and tag the summit, which we thought was at the top
of this snow mound.
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 03 Aug 03 -
It was a little upsetting to see a slightly higher summit way off to the east. So, we dropped down into a
dip (completely with a crevasse), and then tramped up some scree to the true summit.
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 03 Aug 03 -
Here we see Blair taking a picture of me and Gerry at the summit. In the background on the right, you can
see Mt. Temple.
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