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Dave's Alpine Climbs

Welcome to my Alpine Climbs section. Now, this is mountaineering at its best. Alpine climbing generally includes various types of climbing. You can have your alpine rock, which could be anything from easy fifth class rock to near vertical faces which run for thousands of feet. Rock climbing is not my favourite, but it's a good skill to have in order to be an "all around" mountaineer. The other type of climbing included in "alpine climbing" would be snow and ice climbing, my favourite. This is where you get to cross glaciers, run up steep snow and ice faces, etc. In my opinion, this is where the fun is.

Much like the Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies, there is a good book for finding route information up these peaks. It's titled, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" and it's by Sean Dougherty. Unlike Alan Kane's scrambles book, I have no intention of climbing every route in the book. There are over 200 routes, and some are very technical rock climbs, which just don't appeal to me. For the most part, I'm after the 11,000 footers, but if it's a classic snow and ice route, there's a good chance you'll find it on my "to-do" list.

Splitting this section up was not an easy task. Dougherty's book has 15 sections to it, and because many of the sections only include one or two peaks that appeal to me, it didn't make sense to have that many sections. Also, there are peaks that aren't necessarily in his book. So I had to come up with my own grouping. For the most part, it is organized by National Park. If the mountain is not in a national park (like Assininboine), I group it with the closest park (Kootenay).


Alpine climbs by Area

Kananaskis Prov. Park
Mt. Brock 29 Jul 06 9,521 ft (2902m)
Mt. Joffre - N Face 28 Jun 03 11,319 ft (3450M)
Mt. Mangin - NE Face 28 Jun 03 10,030 ft (3057M)
Sir Douglas - W Ridge 13 Aug 05 11,174 ft (3406m)


Banff National Park
  Mountain Date Last Climbed Total Elevation
Mt. Aberdeen - E Face 24 Jul 99 10,338 ft (3151M)
Abotts Pass Hut 01 Sep 00 9,598 ft (2926M)
Mt. Cline - S Ridge 08 Aug 04 11,027 ft (3361M)
Eisenhower Peak 17 Jun 06 9,029 ft (2752m)
Mt. Fay - N Face 03 Aug 03 10,614 ft (3235M)
Mt. Lefroy - W Face 23 Aug 00 11,230 ft (3423M)
The Mitre 05 Aug 06 9,469 ft (2886m)
Neil Colgan Hut 02 Aug 03 9,700 ft (2957M)
Stanley Peak - N Face 25 Oct 98 10,351 ft (3155M)
Storm Mtn - E Ridge 20 Aug 05 10,368 ft (3160m)
Unnamed Peak - E Ridge 23 Jul 06 10,350 ft (3155m)
Mt. Victoria North - NE Ridge 25 Aug 02 11,116 ft (3388M)
Mt. Victoria South - SE Ridge 07 Jul 01 11,365 ft (3464M)


Jasper National Park
Mt. Athabasca - AA Route 12 Oct 98 11,453 ft (3491M)
Mt. Athabasca - N Face 29 Aug 99 11,453 ft (3491M)
Mt. Athabasca - N Ridge 03 Jun 01 11,453 ft (3491M)
Diadem Peak - S Ridge 14 Aug 04 11,052 ft (3371m)
Edith Cavell - E Ridge 30 Aug 03 11,033 ft (3363m)
Mt. Woolley - N Ridge 14 Aug 04 11,171 ft (3405m)


Kootenay National Park
Mt. Assiniboine - SW Ridge 10 Aug 00 11,870 ft (3618M)


Yoho National Park
Mt. Huber - NE Ridge 07 Jul 01 11,051 ft (3368m)
The President - E Ridge 29 Aug 00 10,295 ft (3138M)
Vice President - W Ridge 02 Jul 00 10,058 ft (3066M)


Area North of Golden
Gilgit Mtn 04 Sep 06 10,138 ft (3090m)
Jones Peak 04 Sep 06 9,810 ft (2990m)
Mt. Laussedat incomplete 10,037 ft (3059m)
Mt. Lyell #1 (Rudolph) - W Face 12 Aug 01 11,505 ft (3507m)
Mt. Lyell #2 (Edward) - W Face 12 Aug 01 11,528 ft (3514m)
Mt. Lyell #3 (Ernest) - E Ridge 12 Aug 01 11,520 ft (3511m)
Mt. Lyell #5 (Christian) - S Face 14 Aug 01 11,120 ft (3390m)
Mons Peak - NW Ridge 16 Aug 01 10,113 ft (3080M)
Mt. Tsar - N Ridge 05 Aug 01 11,235 ft (3424M)


Waterton National Park
Mt. Alderson - N Ridge 10 Jul 04 8,832 ft (2692M)
Mt. Anderson - E Face 25 Jun 06 8,701 ft (2652M)
Mt. Blakiston - N Ridge 16 Jul 05 9,547 ft (2910M)
Mt. Clements - NE Shoulder Route 20 Aug 06 8,760 ft (2670M)
Mt. Custer - Herbst Glacier 27 Aug 05 8,883 ft (2708M)
Mt. Yarrow - East Ridge 11 Jun 05 7,611 ft (2320M)


Outside the Canadian Rockies
Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge 31 May 00 14,410 ft (4392M)
Mt. Logan - King's Trench 23 May 02 19,550 ft (5959M)